Deep Dive: New Balance 550 Aimé Leon Dore Review
Originally dubbed the P550, the now seemingly slightly renamed New Balance 550 was first released in 1989. The model was largely overshadowed both by New Balance’s own more running-focused models like the 1500 and basketball shoes released by other brands such as the Reebok Omnipump and the Air Jordan 5. It seemed like the 550 would be a shoe that would be completely forgotten by sneakerheads and for a time it certainly was. But all of that changed when New York fashion brand Aimé Leon Dore announced that the 550 would be the next collaboration in their already successful partnership with New Balance.
The debut run of ALD 550s released in October 2020 to widespread acclaim from the sneaker community. Now in 2021 ALD returns to the silhouette with two further colourways, to the delight of those who missed out the first time around. With the white/navy/red pair in hand and on feet we ask; just how good is this second run of New Balance and Aimé Leon Dore 550s?
If you know you know:
This collaboration takes a more subtle approach. But that is by no means a bad thing! The shoe itself is constructed primarily from white leather. This leather is noticeably thick, an indicator of good quality. However, this does also make the shoe somewhat stiff, and it will likely need a good few wears before it softens up. The leather itself only changes in a couple places. First in the toe-box, where the leather is punctuated by tiny perforations that are only visible upon close examination of the shoe. The only other place in which this main material differentiates is on the lateral side of the shoe. Here we find yet another of the many subtle details that make this such a classy shoe, the 550 model number embossed just below the eyestay.
Staying with the upper of the sneaker, thick white leather is not the only element that makes up this shoe. One of the areas that you may not appreciate fully until you hold this sneaker in hand is the New Balance logo that is cut into the sneaker’s main leather component. Presented in a deep red, the classic New Balance ‘N’ is also displayed in leather. However, unlike the rest of the sneaker, this material is an incredibly tactile cracked leather. Behind this and towards the heel of the shoe we find a barely off white mesh, which is also what constructs the tongue and a small part of the toe. Finally, rounding off the materials on the upper there are two strips of smooth navy blue leather on both the lateral and medial side attached to the mesh.
Casting our eyes downwards, there is another small detail that marks this ALD collab out as different from its general release cousins. The midsole has been treated to a faux-ageing effect that many designer brands seem to be partial to currently, giving it a slight yellow colour. This contrasts nicely with the white that makes up most of the sneaker and visually differentiates the midsole from the rest of the silhouette. The midsole also features the New Balance name and logo, embossed into the rubber on the lateral side. A red heel counter adds a pop of colour to an otherwise toned-down look.
A look to the past and a look to the present:
Finally, the shoe is finished off with ALD branding on both the tongues and the heel of the left shoe. The branding is clever, providing references to the revitalised 550’s past and its future. On the heel of the left shoe the Aimé Leon Dore name and New York in black rings a red apple, likely referencing the city in which ALD is based. But there is more to the apple. Instead of a solid red, the white leather behind slashes through it in diagonal lines. The logo on the heel is not just an apple representing ALDs roots but also a basketball, paying homage to the P550’s humble beginnings. The sneaker’s tongue iterates of the same concept but uses the larger space to expand it further. Here we see the Aimé Leon Dore and 550 model number in navy at the very top of the tongue. Below the previously described basketball/apple returns, although this time the New Balance logo is set into it. Behind this there is a series of red circles designed to create the visual effect of a basketball bouncing towards the front of the image. Once again this is a welcome nod to the model’s heritage.
Sizing:
From what we can tell, the ALD 550s remains dutifully true to the original P550. As such, whilst it is a 2021 release, the 550 remains a shoe from 1989 and sizing on the shoe is a little strange. I (with narrow feet) opted for my native size of a UK 8. The shoe was a looser fit for me than I would have liked, but nothing unbearable. However, one may also experience problems when ordering half a size down as the toe of the shoe is relatively tight. Certainly we would not recommend going half a size down if you have a wider foot.
Verdict:
This latest colourway of the ALD 550 is the type of sneaker that we at Kickwave love. Subtle and understated, this sneaker will pair well with most things and will draw much attention to you from non-sneakerheads. However, it is the little details that make the execution of this shoe so brilliant. We love everything, from the aged midsole to the cracked leather ‘N.’ It is a subtle shoe that rewards those with a deep interest in sneakers. If a fellow sneakerhead stops you to talk about these 550s then you know you are in for a fantastic conversation.